“At the end of a hard day’s walk a warm bed awaits.” This means if you work hard and accomplish things in your life you will have a greater sense of accomplishment and peace in the end.

” A weathered body, and a smooth soul.” I got the inspiration for this phrase after I saw how the older men of the Spanish countryside are worn and weathered on the outside but are joyful and energetic on the inside.

” Let history guide your path.” I got this phrase from when we followed the ancient roman roads and Celtic paths to Santiago, this saying also means that some things can be avoided by simply knowing the faults and mishaps of history and finding the good things to try to repeat them.

“Bells in the mountain mist.” I got this phrase from when we were hiking up one of the largest of the mountains we climbed when we heard the tinkling of bells and saw the shapes of cows trotting and playing up the side of the mountain, This phrase means something you don’t expect to find come in the most unexpected places.   

Today Mike surprised us with a private trip to Finisterria and Muaxia … With a privately catered lunch of local delicacies in a perfect setting. It has been a wonderful celebration! We stopped at roman bridges, walked on roman roads, saw amazing views of the death coast, and took in the beauty of Galacia. We saw the only fresh water waterfall that flows into the ocean in Europe. We saw a mini hedge rose Celtic ceremonial ground. We arrived at Finisterria – translates- end of the world, and just sat in the sunshine contemplating our travels for a bit. Bryce decided to throw his walking stick into the ocean- it is the ritual to give something from your journey to Finisterria.
Muaxia is the place where the apostle james was sitting in tears about his ministry when mary appeared in a stone boat to encourage him to continue. The story goes that the boat broke into 3 pieces and still lies at the foot of the waves. The lady of the boat cathedral is built here. The old cathedral in Muaxia was completed prior to santiago cathedral making it the oldest church in Galacia. Beautiful. The celts had a ritual of arriving at “the end of the earth” meaning any of the Spanish northern coast to view a sunset in their lifetime- these two destinations were the most used.
We feasted on razor clams which we watched boys diving for in the bay, fresh salad, pork, potatoes, fruit, and Galician wine! Thanks to Mike for another magical day!

This morning we went back to the cathedral for the pilgrim’s blessing and mass. What a perfect ending! We entered the cathedral with hundreds of other pilgrims… There were sightings of “camino angels” throughout the cathedral… Those that helped you through some act or gesture of kindness that help you finish your journey. It was extremely emotional as pilgrims filed in until there was not room for more…every corner full. The blessing was given in several languages but no words were really needed. I don’t know if I have ever felt more peaceful or hopeful about how we can be as humans with one another. The mass was full of pageantry ending with the ritual of the urns swinging overhead and a children’s choir singing beautifully. As the service was ending I found myself with the knowledge that we would always know the feeling of walking together as a family and supporting one another, wondering if Bryce might one day bring his family and share memories, and hoping that he will know that Mike and I will ALWAYS walk with him and support him in life.
Time for rest… What a day!…I promise lots of photos soon!

We left Salceda wondering how on earth we were going to make another 27k today but believing that we would and knowing that the cathedral lay at the end of today’s journey! The weather is perfect and the occasional company on the route quite jovial. We talk about how bittersweet it feels for this day to be our final pilgrimage day! Our bodies are definitely ready to rest but our spirits are great and our hearts full from our time on the camino. We agree to just enjoy our last hours together on the road and we are blatantly aware of our sense of gratitude. We stop a few times for our caffe leches and KA S orange soda with Santiago almond tart for a treat! Late in the afternoon we climb a hill that is taking it’s toll but we see pilgrims gathered at the top… The towers of the cathedral and Santiago are in sight in the distance… The emotions were running high and our steps for the last 5 k seem lighter… We would have run if possible. As we entered the city of Santiago people young and old greeted us, congratulated, showed the way.. The cathedral getting ever closer.
Within a few blocks there began to be a crowd as we walked through the narrow cobbled streets of the old city… Many pilgrims from all over the world converging in our final steps. All nationalities, walking together, pats on the back, hugs, congratulations, everyone helping each other… the sense of kindness and gracious behavior amazing! Mike and i are so proud of Bryce… there have been no other kids on the camino, college age being the closest, and he has handled himself with strength, dignity, and compassion. we have lost sight of him from time to time briefly and he was always helping someone. he is growing into a fine young man.
We walked through a tunnel and out into an open square and in that moment the cathedral was majestic in the late afternoon light. There were reunions, prayers, tears, celebrations, and a genuine solid sense of caring for one another. We climbed, hobbled, the steps up to the cathedral entrance and there was the statue of st. James overseeing the entry where all the pilgrims before us have stood and the marble column with a handprint in it from so many kneeling to touch and pray upon arrival. I can’t begin to explain this feeling.,. One I will never ever forget… Totally overwhelming in the most amazing way. The spirit of the camino is almost palliable as we enter. We stop to pray, go together to see the tomb of st. James, walk through the cathedral and then go to formally receive our pilgrim credentials.
SO WORTH EVERY STEP!!!!’
We will celebrate with a traditional Galician dinner and then some much needed sleep!

The hotel Carlos in Mellide was a wonderful experience! Victor and his family treated us like VIP! The food, the service, and the personal attention was so appreciated. Our first day on the French route! As we left the city we passed the 50k mark to Santiago… So exciting! We saw more pilgrims in the first hour than our total previous days! Meeting people from all over the world… Buen camino is shared in every exchange. Great huevos and pan with Acura cheese for lunch. We hobbled in to Salceda late afternoon after 28 k … The miles have worn on us and we are pretty beat up but still in great spirits. One day to go!

Left the nice warm hostel in the rain again this morning to walk over the carriage mountains. It was very cold and windy at the summit! Bryce climbed all the way to the peak! As we came off the mountain we passed the ” hippie shack” where our credential was painted. We saw many quaint villages with a roman church and we walked on roman ruin stone paths… Amazing! The sun came out as we neared Mellide! We are now off of the primitive route and complete our journey over the next two days on the French rout. About 60 km to santiago!

We left Lugo this morning in the rain and it didn’t stop all day! Two words describe this day… Wet -and cold! We still managed about 19 miles and some sweet memories.. Some of our day included…
-a visit back to the cathedral for a blessing of Bryce’s st Christopher
– cafe with huavos sandwiches and cafe leche to get warm for a moment
– went soaking wet into a cafe and wound up with a wonderful lunch of cabbage and ham
-mud up to our knees on forest paths
– giving up and sloshing through!
– getting lost in open fields
– knocking on farmhouse doors and fighting off dogs to seek direction
– a never ending road
– and a kind man with a beautiful private hostel to get warm, dry, and rested
– meeting 3 ladies from Switzerland France and England . Lovely and fun!!!!

Buenos Dias! It is another day and we are feeling better with the exception of mike. He is not well., nothing serious just not up to carrying a backpack over the mountains today. We have a very steep climb up to the windmills at the alto and an even steeper descent down to the dam at grande de Salime. Bryce and I decide to go on and we sent mike ahead to wait for us! The day was spectacular! The hike was mostly wooded and we played and bantered along the path while talking about life choices… Priceless. The descent was rugged, steep, with lots of cutbacks and beautiful! Bryce was very protective about me staying away from the edge…. He reminds me of mike in so many ways. We never saw a soul but there were signs of others pointing the way for us. As we departed the woods onto a road we saw an amazing view of the dam so we hiked down and went exploring. We could see a quaint structure up in the hills overlooking the water and we hoped that was where mike would be..,. It was! A lovely spot to stop and rest.
Today was bitter sweet as we said goodbye to Peter and Maria! They left us with a plan to make santiago and sweet memories of our camino angels- “let me help you- I’m going to help you” – this couple has known great loss and sorrow but exude such joy and warmth… Lessons to remember…,

Oh my goodness! Today was the hardest day yet… 20 miles of climbing high altitudes in most, cold, wind. Steep climbs and descents and no places to stop. We had to choose and ,of course, we chose the road less traveled… The original hospitales route.
We left the alburgue with an old dog as our escort to the crossroads. The scenes were intensely beautiful but it was hard to look up because the hiking was rather treacherous. Bryce called it our day to walk in the clouds! We all were limping and laughing as we hobbled into an alburgue . Hot tea and a hot shower had us a bit refreshed but we are pretty beaten up. Feet and backs are feeling the miles and we are ready for bed! Night night!
Ps.. We ate octopus last night….not certain what I think about that…,